Club Review--The Vernerable Bicycle Shop Cafe

Tomm Carroll

Cafes and reataurants often spice up their menus with live music to enhance the ambience and attract new patrons. The vernerable Bicycle Shop Cafe in West Los Angeles has been peddling aural apertifs and dinner accompaniment for several years now, adding to the attractive atmosphere of the establishment.

The Buzz: The stalwart lunch-brunch-dinner spot has been a popular Westside hangout for diners, drinkers and schmoozers for nearly a quarter-century, not only surviving but flourishing while many other nearby restaurants have come and gone. The low-key jazz on weekend evenings only makes the experience all the more pleasurable.

The Look: Well, a bike shop. Various bicycles, unicycles and wheels from throughout the history of the vehicle, as well as related artwork are mounted on the walls and suspended from the ceiling of what otherwisw looks like a spacious fern bar.
A handsome, rectangular red oak bar bar, with a mirrored overhang on which the wine list is painted, is in the center of the room with tables and chairs all around. A stone and floral-framed pond, complete with colorful carp and flowing fountain, can be found in the rear by a semi-private room capable of holding about 25 people. The bands set up in front of the waterworks.

Most Distinguishing Feature: The all-wood, hand-carved bicycle originally used on the "Gilligan's Island" TV series, which hangs over one of the cafe's window-front tables.

The Clientele: A wide age range of patrons during mealtimes, transforming to mostly yup-scale Westsiders who congregate to drink, converse and flirt (especially with the Swedish barmaid) as the evening progresses.
Where There's Smoke: Outside on Wilshire Boulevard.

On Tap: Germany's Warstiener and America's Samuel Adams top the tap list, which also features the watery Bud Light. A good selection of bottled beers is highlighted by Anchor Steam, Bass, Guinness and Beck's. The wine list is impressive and there are many happy-hour specials on margaritas, mai tais, martinis and other mixed drinks.

The Eats: The main draw at the Bicycle Shop, the French-Continental-meets-California cuisine is consistently fine. The menu is packed with soups, salads, pizzas, pastas, burgers, burritos, steaks, seafood, lamb chops, chicken breasts, omelets and lots of desserts. The tender seared ahi tuna steak in wine and soy sauce is especially recommended.

The Entertainment: Currently, pianist Page Cavanaugh, whose trio backed none other than Frank Sinatra during the latter's legendary Waldorf Astoria shows after World War II, offers mellow jazz and timeless melodies with the accompaniment of bassist Phil Mallory on Friday nights, while Saturday's sounds are provided by ivory-tickler and singer Stephen Gooze, also augmented by a stand-up bassist, who serenaded folks with such chestnuts as "How Deep is the Ocean" one recent evening.

Happy Anniversary: Halloween marks the Bicycle Shop Cafe's 25th birthday, and the establishment is hosting a marathon celebration Oct. 26-31. Food specials and nightly live entertainment will be featured, and the commemoration culminates with a VIP party on the 31st which includes dining, dancing and drinking -- from an open bar! Call for details.

Club Facts: Bicycle Shop Cafe, 12217 Wilshire Boulevard, West L.A., 310-826-7831. Open daily, live music Friday-Saturday, no cover.