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The
views expressed in this column are those of Frank Gruber and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of The Lookout. |
Copyright 1999-2008 surfsantamonica.com. All Rights Reserved. |
What
I Say
|
|||
| News Archives | What I Say Archives | Email Frank | |
| |||
| |
The
views expressed in this column are those of Frank Gruber and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of The Lookout. |
Copyright 1999-2008 surfsantamonica.com. All Rights Reserved. |
What
I Say
|
|||
| News Archives | What I Say Archives | Email Frank | |
| |||
| |
The
views expressed in this column are those of Frank Gruber and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of The Lookout. |
Copyright 1999-2008 surfsantamonica.com. All Rights Reserved. |
What
I Say
|
|||
| News Archives | What I Say Archives | Email Frank | |
| |||
| |
The
views expressed in this column are those of Frank Gruber and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of The Lookout. |
Copyright 1999-2008 surfsantamonica.com. All Rights Reserved. |
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Going Gidget By Betty Breakwater This time solo on a board -- a 10-foot twin fin. With my pro coach Danny, I went out at a "mysto" spot between Malibu and the Ventura-LA county line just south of Leo Carillo Beach and a favorite hang called Neptunes Net. (I was sworn to secrecy by the locals.)Anyway, its a good, dependable break with a nice crumbling wave -- not a dumping wave (like Venice). According to my sources you can find a nice break many places, but some are more reliable than others. To find a good break depends on many factors: What the tides are doing, whether there is a big swell and what the sandbars are like all impact the shape and dynamics of the waves. One nice beginner break, which I plan to try soon, is called Sunset -- near Gladstones.
It was wide open, but we werent alone -- there were some awesome "groms" surfing (check next weeks column on surf lingo), as well as a few experienced locals, including an awesome "Betty." I was inspired, but not intimidated. The waves were crumbling nicely at about chest-high -- about 3 feet. Very easy, yet big enough to get a ride. The sets were spaced widely enough so it wasnt too hard to paddle out (though Danny was nice enough to give me a tow to keep our pace up under our time constraints (We both had to work that afternoon). Paddling out was no problem, especially with the tow, and I had no trouble going "through" the waves when they were breaking. To go through a wave you basically lie with head down, cheek to the board taking a deep breath and holding on tight while you pierce the wave. The alternative is to go over the wave, but you can only do this if it isnt about to break. Given this, it gets tiring paddling out, but you know once youre out there that you will have time to rest as long as you need to. But, if you dont paddle out past the break quickly enough, you can be set back a long time and really exhaust yourself. So, paddling becomes an exercise in being aggressive and efficient, but
staying relaxed at the same time. According to my coach you want to keep
your arms relaxed and close to the water -- there is no need to lift them
high up in an arc like you do when swimming. Its far more energy
efficient to keep them close to water and focusing on making every Once out in the water, the trick becomes knowing in which direction to aim your board. Since this depends on the tides and the direction of the waves, and I have not become close to understanding it yet, I depended on Danny for directions. He told me where to aim my board and would yell -- Paddle NOW -- when the time was right. Often, it felt to me like I was paddling too soon, but I knew I had to get some momentum going before the wave gained on me. Its a slightly strange feeling paddling wildly in front of a wave with your eyes on the shore or on your board waiting for it to take you for a ride. When the wave came and I was paddling furiously to get into it -- it was awesome to feel it actually carrying me on the board. Its at this moment that you must stand up to ride the wave by pushing up quickly onto your feet into a side-standing position. (Actually, it feels more like the wave is "catching you" or carrying you.) Pushing up quickly proved difficult for me. I could feel when to do it, but I was thinking too hard about doing it right to avoid falling. The result was that I was taking too much time standing up. While I was slowly in the process of pushing up, I was inadvertently turning the board against the wave and changing direction. This took me out of the optimum trajectory that Danny had told me to aim for and slowed me down enough to cause me to lose balance and fall off the back of the board. Falling like this was a pleasant surprise, it felt almost slow motion and I found I could fall backward and quickly jump back up on my board. There wasnt much to it as long as another wave wasnt waiting to break on top of me. With my fear of falling softened, I felt like paddling out again and again, determined to catch a wave and fully stand up. I caught about eight waves that afternoon, but never quite made it to a relaxed standing position. At best I made it to a low crouch or squat. Funny enough I still had a blast! The surf wasnt that big, so when I fell it was more pleasure than pain. Also, the waves and sets were spread out enough to allow me to fall, get back on the board and paddle out without getting pummeled!! My fear was quickly abated and I have become more determined than ever to learn this sport. Although my first solo session was a great time, and my coach said I did "very well," I learned first hand that there is a lot to learn and understand about the water and tides to make them work "for" rather than "against" you. My experience was definitely enhanced by having a good coach who saved me a lot of guesswork by telling me when to paddle and a lot of energy by helping me paddle out efficiently and quickly. Even with his help, its crystal clear that surfing could easily be either a futile exercise or an exhilarating challenge depending on how you tackle it. I still have a lot to learn, but after this day I feel confident its within reach with a lot of practice and patience. Now that I know that to push up has to be a fast smooth movement I will practice it often at home on the floor so it will feel more automatic and natural the next time Im back on a board in the water. Im starting to look for my own gear (racks for my car, a board, leash and board bag), so I can brave the waves on my own -- of course when they arent too big!!! Until next time . Hang loose, Betty B. |
Copyright 1999-2008 surfsantamonica.com. All Rights Reserved. |